Pacman Frog Care Sheet

Pacman Frog Species Overview

Pacman frogs are native to wet, humid jungles in South America. These frogs are named after Pac-Man®, a popular video game character, due to their round shape and large mouths. 

Pacman frogs are also called “horned frogs” because the top of their head has a point over each eye, resembling two horns. 

The Pacman frog has a large, stocky body. Fully grown adult Pacman frogs usually weigh between a half-pound and a pound. These frogs are available in a range of colors and patterns, including:

• Brown

• Green

• Red

• Orange

• Albino (pink and yellow)

Pacman frogs may change in appearance as they age.

Pacman frogs are somewhat inactive amphibians that will bury their bodies in substrate with only their eyes and “horns” visible, waiting to ambush predators. Generally, these frogs are nocturnal, more active at night than during the day. Pacman frogs are robust eaters, acclimate quickly to their habitat, and don’t need lots of space because they are not particularly active. 

Pacman Frog Characteristics 

Pacman Frog Handling

Due to their sharp teeth and propensity to bite, Pacman frogs are best observed rather than handled. Human skin also has bacteria and oils that amphibians can absorb through their delicate and porous skin, leading to infection and illness. When handling your frog, always use powder-free latex gloves moistened with dechlorinated water.

All frogs are potential carriers of infectious diseases, including Salmonella bacteria, which is zoonotic (transmittable to humans). Pet parents should always wash their hands before and after handling their frog or their habitat’s contents. 

Pacman Frog Supply Checklist

To keep a Pacman frog happy and healthy, pet parents should have these basic supplies on hand: 

• Appropriately sized habitat 

• Substrate 

• Moss 

• Water and mealworm dishes 

• Hideaway place 

• Climbing decor 

• Plants 

• Heat light and fixture 

• Nocturnal/nighttime reptile bulbs 

• Under-tank heater (must be paired with thermostat) 

• UVB lighting and fixture 

• Multivitamin supplement 

• Calcium supplement with vitamin D 

• Cricket keeper 

• Cricket food 

• Cricket quencher 

• Live insects 

• Frozen rodents (for adult frogs) 

• Thermometers 

• Thermostat 

• Humidity gauge 

• Water mister 

Pacman Frog Habitat

Choosing the Right Enclosure 

Since Pacman frogs are sedentary creatures, they do not need a very spacious habitat. Habitats should have at least a 10- to 20-gallon capacity. Enclosures should be large enough for young frogs to explore and burrow. Ideally, habitats should be wider than they are tall, secured with a tight-fitting screened lid both to prevent escape and allow good ventilation. 

With proper care, Pacman frogs will reach their adult size within 6 to 12 months. You can gradually increase the size of their frog’s habitat as it grows.

Habitat Mates 

Pacman frogs are solitary animals that should be housed alone. When housed together, Pacman frogs will become territorial and possibly cannibalistic toward each other.

Never keep different species of amphibians or reptiles in the same habitat.

Light and Heat Sources 

Install a low-watt incandescent bulb, under-tank heating pad, or ceramic heat emitter to supply radiant heat in your frog’s habitat.

The wattage needed for the heat bulb will vary depending on the size of the enclosure, the distance of the bulb from the frog, and the ambient temperature of the room in which the enclosure is kept.

Note: Some light bulbs provide not only light to the tank but also heat and/or ultraviolet (UV) light. Check the light sources you’re considering to be clear of their function in the tank.

• Heat sources should be attached to a thermostat to keep temperatures within a safe and comfortable range. 

• Hot rocks should never be used

• If an under-tank heating pad is used, it must always be connected to a thermostat to prevent the frog from getting burned. 

White lights should not be left on continuously, as they will disrupt the frog's natural sleep cycle and negatively affect its overall health. At night, turn off lights inside the frog’s enclosure, or switch to a nocturnal or infrared light to ensure the frog can rest. 

UV Light 

Studies show that daily exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light can improve a frog’s immune system function. Pet parents should use a low-level (2.0 or 5.0) UVB bulb to provide their frog with 10 to 12 hours of UVB light daily to imitate natural sunlight.

• Replace bulbs every six months (even if they still emit light) because their effectiveness wanes over time. 

• A day/night timer can make it easier to maintain a consistent day and night cycle. 

Temperature 

Maintain habitat temperatures of 75–83 F during the day and 70–75 F at night. Check the temperatures of your frog’s habitat daily. Two thermometers—one in the warm area and one in the cool area—should be placed in the enclosure so that both zones can be checked at once. A digital point-and-shoot thermometer can also be used to instantly read habitat temperatures. 

Humidity 

Humidity levels should be maintained between 70–80% and monitored with a humidity gauge, called a hygrometer. To retain humidity in the enclosure, you can mist the substrate in your frog’s habitat with dechlorinated water at least once a day.

Be sure that the substrate is damp but not wet. Excess humidity in a frog’s habitat can lead to the growth of mold and bacteria that can cause skin and respiratory tract infections, while low humidity can cause frogs to become dehydrated and inactive for longer periods than is normal. 

Frogs should always have access to a shallow bowl of dechlorinated water in their habitat that’s wide enough for them to soak in. Water bowls should be cleaned, disinfected, and refilled daily. 

Bedding 

Adult frogs need about 3- to 4-inches of substrate. Coconut fiber and sphagnum moss are excellent choices, as they hold moisture well and are loose enough to allow burrowing. For a naturalistic look, you can cover substrate with leaf litter.

When selecting a substrate, keep a few things in mind: 

• Avoid reptile carpet or other artificial turf, which are too rough for a frog’s delicate skin. 

Gravel and rocks are not recommended. Aside from being abrasive to frogs’ skin, these substrates can lead to a fatal gastrointestinal tract obstruction if eaten. 
 

Decor and Accessories 

Pacman frogs should have constant access to an open, shallow bowl of filtered and dechlorinated water (never use distilled or tap water) in which they can soak and drink. The bowl should be surrounded by plants, such as pothos, to create coverage and help frogs feel safe while drinking and sitting in the bowl. Water bowls should be disinfected and refilled daily. Do not use distilled water, which doesn’t include any of the vitamins, salts, or minerals that frogs need to stay hydrated. 

Pacman Frog Cleaning and Maintenance

Spot-clean your Pacman frog’s habitat daily by removing any discarded food or droppings. Food and water dishes should also be cleaned and disinfected daily. 

A frog’s habitat needs to be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected at least once a month with either an amphibian-safe habitat cleaner or a 3% bleach solution.

To clean a frog’s habitat, take these steps: 

1. Using powder-free latex gloves moistened with dechlorinated water to move the frog to a secure temporary habitat. Be sure to handle the frog gently to avoid harming their sensitive skin. A fine-mesh net can also be used to move or block frogs during routine habitat maintenance. 

2. Remove any old substrate, decor, and accessories from the habitat.  

3. Scrub the empty tank and any furnishings with an amphibian-safe habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution. The solution should stay on the habitat for at least 10 minutes to ensure that the surfaces are properly disinfected. If using a commercial habitat cleaner, follow the manufacturer's instructions. 

4. Rinse the habitat and accessories thoroughly with dechlorinated water, making sure to remove any trace amounts or residual smells left by the cleaning agent or bleach solution.

5. Allow the habitat and its contents to dry completely before placing new substrate and clean accessories into the habitat. 

6. Return the frog to their newly clean habitat. Always be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handing a frog or the habitat’s contents. 

What Do Pacman Frogs Eat?

Pacman frogs should be fed a variety of gut-loaded insects and worms. Adult frogs can also be fed frozen/thawed rodents every other week.

Pacman frogs need a daily calcium supplement with vitamin D and a reptile multivitamin once a week.

Use feeding tongs, not fingers, to offer meals, so that your frog doesn’t associate fingers with food and bite your hand. 

Pacman Frog Feeding Guidelines 

• Juvenile frogs should be fed daily, while adults should be fed one to two times a week. Juvenile frogs should not be fed frozen/thawed rodents. 

• Pacman frogs can deliver a painful bite and should always be fed with feeding tongs. 

• Since these frogs enjoy hunting and chasing live prey, pet parents may need to entice their Pacman frog to eat frozen/thawed rodents. However, live prey should never be given to a frog. 

A well-balanced and nutritious diet for a Pacman frog includes gut-loaded (recently fed) insects and worms, including crickets, Dubia roaches, and earthworms. 

Mealworms and waxworms are high in fat, so they should only be offered as an occasional treat. 

For a well-rounded frog, feed a variety of insects rather than the same ones every day. Feeding a frog the same food every day can lead to malnutrition. 

Before being fed, live insects must be gut-loaded with a nutrient-dense insect supplement to improve their nutritional value.

Before feeding, dust your frog’s insects with a powdered vitamin supplement. Pacman frogs need a calcium supplement with vitamin D and a multivitamin/mineral powder designed for amphibians. A calcium powder supplement with vitamin D should be given daily. Multivitamin supplements should only be given once a week. 

To dust insects quickly and efficiently, place insects in a bag or disposable plastic container along with a powdered supplement. Then, shake the bag lightly until the insects are coated evenly in powder. 

Adult frogs can eat frozen/thawed rodents, including pinkies and adult mice, every other week. Juvenile frogs should not be fed rodents until they reach their adult size. 

Live rodents should not be fed to frogs. While still alive, rodents can become aggressive and leave severe wounds that lead to life-threatening infections. 

Frozen rodents should never be microwaved, as this can leave “hot spots” that can burn a frog’s mouth and tongue. 

How To Gut-Load Insects for Pacmans

Gut-loading diets are fortified with vitamins and minerals to help provide optimal nutrition to the reptiles that feed on them. To gut-load prey, place insects in a container with a gut-loading diet that the bugs can gorge on. Insects should be gut-loaded for at least 24 to 72 hours before being dusted with a powdered vitamin/mineral supplement and fed to a frog. 

How To Thaw Frozen Prey for Pacmans

To thaw frozen prey:

1. Remove the needed number of food items from the bag. 

2. Put the frozen food in a sealed plastic bag and place it in a thawing container filled with cold water. The thawing container should only be used for thawing your frog’s frozen meals. 

3. Keep the food in the water until it thaws. Discard the cold water. 

4. Refill the thawing container with warm water. 

5. Place the thawed prey, still in the sealed plastic bag, in the warm water. Allow it to soak for 10 to 15 minutes before discarding the water. 

6. Just before feeding, run nearly hot water over the thawed food to warm it above room temperature. 

7. Remove the thawed food from the container and plastic bag.

8. Use feeding tongs to offer the food to your pet right away. 

Never use a microwave to thaw or warm frozen rodents, and never offer food that's still frozen to a pet. Frozen food that is not consumed should never be refrozen for future use, as this encourages bacteria to form in the food.

Avoid preparing frozen rodents in the same area that you use to prepare food. If this is unavoidable, be sure to disinfect the area thoroughly after use. 

Pacman Frog Grooming and Care

Shedding

Amphibians regularly shed, or “slough,” their skin. Some frogs will shed their skin daily, while others will shed every few weeks. Generally, healthy frogs should shed their skin in one complete piece. Most frogs will eat their dead skin after shedding it—a natural behavior that recycles the skin’s proteins and other nutrient to benefit the frog.

Younger frogs that are actively growing tend to shed more frequently than adults. 

A frog's skin may turn cloudy or milky in color when the animal is ready to shed. Frogs usually assume a crouching position while shedding. 

When habitat humidity levels get too low, a Pacman frog’s skin will thicken to prevent dehydration, which can give the frog a “dead” look. If this happens, pet parents should increase the humidity in their frog’s environment, which will allow them to shed and eat the thickened skin. 

Pacman Frog Veterinary Care

Annual Care

Pacman frogs should be seen by a veterinarian once a year. You’ll want to transport them in a size-appropriate, ventilated carrier with a moist material such as wet paper towel on the bottom for traction. You will need pictures of their enclosure and all food and tank item packaging for your veterinarian to assess during the appointment.

Signs of a Healthy Pacman Frog

• Clean, clear eyes

• Intact, moist skin

• Pink, clean oral cavity

• Round, plump body

• Regular bumps or “horns” across the skin that match the underlying skin color

• Clear nostrils

• Straight, smooth toes

• Good appetite

• Bright and alert

When to Call a Vet

• Dry skin

• Eye discharge or a swollen or protruding eye

• Lesion on skin

• Red discoloration of limbs and bottom aspect of frog

• Lethargy

• Lack of appetite

• Discharge or blood from mouth

• Oral lesions

• Bent or broken toes or other limb bones

• Nasal discharge

• Weight loss

Common Illnesses in Pacman Frogs

• Trauma

• Metabolic bone disease and other nutritional deficiencies

• Chemical Intoxication

• Red leg

• Chlamydia

• Mycobacteria

• Chytridiomycosis

• Chromomycosis

• Saprolegniasis