Crested Gecko Care Sheet

Published May 22, 2024
Crested gecko side profile

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In This Article

Species Overview

Crested Gecko Species Overview

The crested gecko, or eyelash gecko, is a small lizard named for the fringe-like crests that run down their body. Crested geckos were considered extinct until 1994, when large populations of these lizards were found on the New Caledonia islands off the Australian coast. 

Like frogs, crested geckos are powerful jumpers! These lizards will actively leap between branches and other ledges in their habitat. 

A fun fact—crested geckos use their tongues to clean and rehydrate their eyeballs. 

Crested Gecko Characteristics 

Difficulty of Care 

Beginner 

Average Lifespan 

15–20 years with proper care 

Average Adult Size 

5–8 inches long 

Diet 

Omnivorous 

Minimum Habitat Size 

20 gallons for a single gecko; habitats should be tall 

 

Crested Gecko Handling

Crested geckos can be handled gently, but rough handling, especially by their tails, can cause their tails to break off. Unlike several other reptiles, their tails will not grow back if dropped. Therefore, crested geckos should NEVER be held or restrained by their tails. 

Crested geckos may try to leap while being handled, so they should be handled only over soft surfaces to minimize the risk of injury. 

Newly homed geckos need some time to adjust to their surroundings before being handled. 

Handling time should be minimized while the lizard is shedding. 

Crested geckos tend to be nocturnal (most active at night), so you’ll often find them hiding under rocks or burrowed under substrate during the day. 

All reptiles are potential carriers of infectious diseases including Salmonella bacteria, which is zoonotic (transmittable to people). Always wash your hands before and after handling your gecko or their habitat’s contents. 

Crested Gecko Supply Checklist

To keep a crested gecko happy and healthy, keep these basic supplies on hand: 

  • Appropriately sized habitat  

  • Commercial crested gecko food  

  • Substrate (bedding) 

  • Sphagnum moss  

  • Food and water dishes  

  • Mealworm dish  

  • Hideaway place  

  • Climbing decor  

  • Plants  

  • Heat light  

  • Heat fixture  

  • Vitamin supplement  

  • Calcium supplement  

  • Cricket quencher  

  • Cricket keeper  

  • Cricket food  

  • Thermometer  

  • Hygrometer (humidity gauge) 

Crested Gecko Habitat

Crested Gecko Enclosure 

A single adult crested gecko needs a tank that’s 20 gallons or larger. Since these lizards love to climb, the height of their enclosure is much more important than floor space. All enclosures should have a screened lid to allow for proper ventilation and prevent escape. 

With proper care, crested geckos reach adult size within 6–12 months and the average crested gecko lifespan is 15–20 years. Pet parents must increase the size of their gecko’s habitat to accommodate their growth as they mature.

Crested Gecko Habitat Mates 

Do not house more than one male crested gecko in the same habitat, as they are territorial and will fight.

In large habitats, a single male crested gecko can be housed alongside females of the same species, but they may breed. When introducing geckos to each other, they should be monitored to ensure they are compatible.

Never mix different species of reptiles in the same habitat. 

Temperature 

Crested geckos need a thermal gradient in their enclosure so they can warm up and cool down as needed. The warm end of a crested gecko’s habitat should be around 72–75 F, while the cooler end should be kept between 68–75 F. 

Crested geckos are sensitive to high temperatures and prone to overheating, so they should never be exposed to temperatures over 80 F for extended periods. 

Check the temperatures of your gecko’s habitat daily. Two thermometers—one in the warm area and one in the cool area—should be placed in the enclosure so that both zones can be checked at once. A digital point-and-shoot thermometer can also be used to read habitat temperatures instantly. 

Light and Heat Sources 

Like all other reptiles, crested geckos are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature.

An incandescent light or ceramic heat emitter should be used to create a basking area in the gecko’s habitat. The wattage needed for the heat bulb will vary depending on the size of the enclosure, the distance of the bulb from the gecko, and the ambient temperature of the room in which the enclosure is kept.

Adjust the wattage of the bulb to maintain the recommended temperature gradient within the tank.

Note: Some light bulbs provide not only light to the tank but also heat and/or ultraviolet (UV) light. Pet parents should check the light sources they are considering to be clear of their function in the tank. 

  • Make sure that heat bulbs are not placed too close to the top of a crested gecko’s tank. These curious lizards may try to climb onto them and get burned. 

  • Heat sources should be attached to a thermostat to keep temperatures within a safe and comfortable range. 

  • Hot rocks should not be used, because they can get too warm and cause injury.  

  • If an under-tank heating pad is used, it must be connected to a thermostat to prevent the lizard from getting burned.   

White incandescent lights should not be left on continuously, as they will disrupt the gecko’s natural sleep cycle and negatively affect its overall health. At night, switch to a nocturnal or infrared light to ensure the lizard can rest. 

UV Light 

Although crested geckos are nocturnal, studies show that daily exposure to UVA/UVB light can improve reptiles' immune system function and promote normal behavior.

Reptiles need daily exposure to UVB rays so they can produce vitamin D in their skin, which in turn allows them to absorb dietary calcium. Without adequate UVB exposure, geckos are at a greater risk of developing a range of life-threatening illnesses, including metabolic bone disease.   

Pet parents should provide their crested gecko with 10–12 hours of UV light daily to imitate natural sunlight. 

  • UV lights should be placed about 12–18 inches from where the reptile sits.

  • UVB light potency wanes over time so it’s important to replace bulbs every six months, even if the bulb still emits light.  

Humidity 

Crested geckos hail from a tropical island and need humidity in their environment to support their respiratory systems, encourage healthy shed cycles, and stay hydrated. The ideal humidity range for a crested gecko’s habitat is 70 to 80%. A hygrometer (humidity gauge) should be used to measure the enclosure’s humidity each day. 

To help maintain proper humidity levels, you can mist your crested gecko’s habitat daily and always provide your lizard with a water dish that’s large enough for the gecko to soak in.

A humid hide (a hideout box packed with moistened sphagnum moss or paper towels) should also be provided to boost humidity and encourage healthy shedding.  

Substrate 

The bottom of a crested gecko’s habitat should be lined with a substrate that holds moisture well. Coconut fiber, dampened sphagnum moss, recycled paper-based pelleted bedding, and reptile carpet are all suitable choices. Moistened cypress mulch can also be used, but it runs the risk of becoming moldy if it’s left wet and not replaced frequently.  

Gravel, wood chips or shavings, and walnut shells are not recommended because these types of bedding are indigestible and can lead to a fatal gastrointestinal obstruction if consumed. 

Decor and Accessories 

Climbing Branches and Vines

Crested geckos are arboreal (or “tree-dwelling”) lizards that love to climb! Pet parents should furnish their crested gecko’s habitat with sturdy branches and vines that allow the lizard to climb, jump, and exercise. 

Branches must be large and sturdy enough to support the gecko’s body. Otherwise, the branch could topple over and potentially cause injury. 

Plants

Adding non-toxic live and plastic plants to a gecko’s enclosure can help increase the habitat’s humidity level and create hiding spots in the enclosure. Avoid using silk plants, as they do not hold humidity. 

Hiding Areas

Crested geckos should have access to at least two hiding areas in their habitat, one in the cool end of their enclosure and one in the warm end. Aside from offering privacy and security, hideouts allow lizards to have a space away from their enclosure’s direct basking area. 

Pet parents should monitor their lizard's behavior to be sure they are not spending all their time in hiding areas, as they won’t have a chance to benefit from UV light exposure.  

Food and Water Dishes

Since reptiles absorb water through their skin to stay hydrated, water dishes should be large and shallow enough for the lizard to soak in them, if needed. 

Food and water dishes must be washed and disinfected daily. 

Place water dishes on the cooler end of the habitat to prevent the water from evaporating too quickly and raising humidity levels in the habitat. 

If they aren’t soaking on their own, pet parents should soak their lizard for 10–15 minutes once a week. 

Crested Gecko Cleaning and Maintenance

Spot-clean your gecko's habitat daily, removing any soiled material and discarded food. Food and water dishes must be washed and disinfected daily. 

A crested gecko’s habitat must also be disinfected and cleaned thoroughly at least once a week (or more often if two or more geckos live in the same habitat). Pet parents should always wash their hands before and after handling their gecko or the habitat’s contents. 

To clean a crested gecko’s habitat, take these steps:  

  1. Move the gecko to a secure environment. Remove any decor, accessories, and substrate (if used) from the habitat.  

  1. Scrub the empty tank and any furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution. The bleach solution should stay on the habitat for at least 10 minutes to ensure that the surfaces are properly disinfected. If using a commercial habitat cleaner, follow the manufacturer's instructions.  

  1. Rinse the habitat and accessories thoroughly with water, making sure to remove any trace amounts or residual smells left by the cleaning agent or bleach solution.   

  1. Allow the habitat and its contents to dry completely before placing new substrate (if used) and clean accessories into the habitat.  

  1. Return the gecko to the clean habitat.  

Crested Gecko Food

Crested geckos should be given a nutritionally complete powdered food, formulated specifically for crested geckos every day. Commercial crested gecko food usually comes in a powder that should be mixed with water immediately before feeding. 

Once or twice a week, crested geckos can be offered gut-loaded insects that have been dusted in a calcium supplement with vitamin D and a multivitamin and mineral supplement for reptiles.

Crested geckos can also be offered soft fruits or fruit-based unsweetened baby food as an occasional treat. 

Gut-loaded (recently fed) insects and worms may be offered one to two times a week as a treat, and may include:

  • Crickets

  • Mealworms

  • Dubia roaches

  • Waxworms

Adult geckos should be given about five to ten crickets or three to four worms at each feeding session. 

Pet parents should vary their gecko’s diet by feeding them several types of insects. Any insects fed should be no bigger than the widest part of a crested gecko’s head. 

Soft fruits or fruity baby foods such as peaches, bananas, or apricots can be mixed with powdered crested gecko food and offered as an occasional treat. 

Baby foods should not have any added sugar or preservatives. Look for single-ingredient fruit purees. 

Crested Gecko Vitamin Supplements

Dust your gecko’s insects with a calcium supplement with vitamin D before each feeding session. Once or twice a week, insects should also be dusted with a multivitamin/mineral powder designed for reptiles. 

To dust insects, place them in a bag or disposable plastic container along with a powdered supplement. Then shake the bag lightly until the insects are coated evenly in powder. 

Fresh, clean water should always be available and replaced daily. Water dishes should be large and shallow enough for the gecko to soak in if needed. 

Feeding Guidelines 

Pet parents should watch their geckos during feeding sessions to ensure that no insect goes uneaten. Live, uneaten insects can injure a gecko and should not be left in their habitat. 

Because crested geckos are nocturnal animals, food should be offered at night. 

How to Gut-Load Insects 

Before being fed to a gecko, live insects must be gut-loaded with a nutrient-dense insect supplement to improve their nutritional value. Gut-loading diets are fortified with vitamins and minerals to help provide optimal nutrition to the reptiles that feed on them.

Insects should be gut-loaded six to 12 hours before being fed to a crested gecko. 

Crested Gecko Care

Shedding

Crested geckos shed their skin in one piece while they grow. Juvenile crested geckos shed every one to two weeks, while adults shed once a month.  

Before it is shed, a crested gecko’s skin will turn dull or pale. 

To aid in shedding, geckos should have access to a humid hide filled with moistened sphagnum moss or substrate. Be sure to check and replace the moss regularly so it does not become moldy. 

Crested geckos will eat their shed skin to regain some of its nutrients.  

Crested Gecko Veterinary Care

Annual Care

Crested geckos should be seen by a veterinarian once a year. They can be transported using an appropriately sized plastic container with air holes and a traction surface on the bottom such as a wet paper towel.

Be sure to take pictures of their enclosure, diet, heaters, and lights (including exact specifications from the packaging) so your veterinarian can assess their husbandry as part of the exam.

Signs of a Healthy Crested Gecko

  • Clean, clear eyes

  • Clean ears with no local swelling

  • Intact skin with no ulcerations or stuck shed

  • Good appetite

  • Bright, alert personality

  • Clean vent

  • No swellings or bumps

  • Appropriate basking behavior

  • Good body condition score/weight

When to Call a Vet

  • Eyes are swollen, sunken, stuck shut, or have discharge

  • Swellings around ears

  • Pink ulcerations or other lesions are seen on the skin, especially the nose

  • Refusing food

  • Failing to bask

  • Lethargy

  • Discharge around vent

  • Lumps or bumps

  • Cannot move appropriately

  • Belly appears sunken

  • Shed is stuck, especially around the toes, particularly if any toes are swollen

  • Rapid loss of muscles throughout back and tail

Common Illnesses in Crested Geckos

  • Metabolic bone disease

  • Vitamin A deficiency

  • Dysecdysis – stuck shed, especially on the toes

  • Intestinal parasites

  • GI impactions

  • Diarrhea

  • Eye infections and ulcerations

  • Skin infections

  • Trauma

Crested Gecko FAQs

Are crested geckos friendly?

Affectionately known as “cresties,” crested geckos are popular family pets due to their calm and friendly personalities.

Do crested geckos like to be held?

With regular handling, crested geckos are usually very interested in being held. They’re curious by nature and enjoy hanging out with their pet parents, especially if food is involved.

Are crested geckos hard to care for?

Daily maintenance for crested geckos is very easy, though it’s worth noting that you’ll need to do some research to make sure you’re providing them the best care.

How much do crested geckos cost?

Standard crested geckos are generally about $50–75 but rarer varieties can cost over $1,000!

Why does my crested gecko lick me?

Crested geckos lick you to smell you! They use their tongues to “catch” odors to better assess. Your personal gecko will likely identify you by licking you or to search for food. 


Maria Zayas, DVM

WRITTEN BY

Maria Zayas, DVM

Veterinarian

Dr. Zayas has practiced small animal and exotic medicine all over the United States and currently lives in Colorado with her 3 dogs, 1 cat,...


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