How To Litter Train a Rabbit

Ever wonder—can you potty train a rabbit? Yes, you can!

Rabbits, by nature, are very clean animals and like to go to the bathroom in a few areas, typically in the corners of a space. You’ll want to capitalize on this fact when learning how to litter train a rabbit.

Most rabbits, even free-roaming rabbits, will return to their designated litter box to go to the bathroom once they’re trained. Rabbits and litter boxes can go hand-in-hand.

Bunnies produce a lot of urine and feces, so having a designated area for your rabbit makes for simple cleanup. Additionally, litter boxes provide an easier way to monitor any changes in fecal output or urination indicating that your bunny might be unwell. A litter box for rabbits can be a great solution for any savvy pet parent.

What You Need to Litter Train a Rabbit

It’s ideal to have a large enclosure to fit your rabbit’s litter box, food, water bowls, and toys while still having enough room for your pet to sprawl out. If your rabbit does not have an enclosure but roams freely in a room, you can place the litter box in a corner.

It’s also helpful to put some hay in the corner of the litter box—it’s common for rabbits to go to the bathroom and have a snack at the same time.

Rabbits must always be eating to keep their teeth nice and trim!

Hay can also make going into the litter box more exciting if they have a snack readily available.

Litter Box for Rabbits

Choose a litter box size based on the size of your rabbit. They should be able to move around in the litter box comfortably and even lay down. Ensure the sides of the litter box are low enough so your rabbit can easily jump in and out.

A 9”x12” litter box is generally required for a single rabbit, and a 15”x18” litter box for two rabbits inside the cage.

Recommended litter boxes include:

Best Litter for Rabbits

Use paper-based, organic litter, or hay in the box. Some organic litter options are compressed sawdust pellets, oat, wheat, and alfalfa based.

Avoid the following litter:

• Pine/cedar due to toxicity

• Clay, which can cause respiratory issues

• Clumping litters, which can cause foreign bodies if your rabbit eats them

• Corn cob litter, as it’s not absorbent and can cause intestinal blockages in rabbits

Your rabbit will nibble on some of the litter, but do not let your rabbit ingest large amounts of litter. This can be very hazardous to your rabbit as it can potentially cause gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal.

If your rabbit finds the litter too tasty, try using a different litter, or put newspapers on the bottom and timothy hay on top of those.

Recommended litters for rabbits include:

Litter Box Cleaning

Spot-clean your rabbit’s box with a litter scoop one to two times a day and deep clean the box once a week.

You can use white vinegar and Dawn® soap to clean out the box. Thoroughly rinse to remove any residual odors.

If your rabbit urinates outside the box on the carpet, you can use an enzyme cleaner.

Do not clean the cage or litter box when your rabbit is inside; this is your rabbit's space and territory. Invading their space or taking them out of their area can cause them not to feel safe and make litter box training difficult.

When your rabbit is out of their enclosure, feel free to clean during that time, so you aren’t forcing them out inconveniently. Your rabbit will likely supervise. Make sure that the cage is sufficiently aired out with no lingering odors to prevent respiratory irritation.

How To Litter Train a Rabbit Step by Step

As soon as you get your rabbit, have a litter box available for them to use.

Keep in mind your rabbit might not be great at using their litter boxes regularly until after they are spayed or neutered at 4–6 months of age. Spaying and neutering will significantly reduce your rabbit’s natural inclination to mark their territory with urine.

Follow the below guidelines to successfully litter train your rabbit:

1. Begin training by keeping your rabbit in a small area or their enclosure. Start with at least two litter boxes—smaller one in the corner of the enclosure and a larger one in their free-roaming space. Your rabbit should still be able to move around the cage, lie down, and stand up inside the cage outside of the litter box. If they cannot, you most likely need a bigger enclosure.

2. Place a handful of hay in each box.

3. If your rabbit goes in a different corner of the enclosure, move the litter box to that section.

4. Litter box training should continue mainly in the cage for the first few weeks. After that, rabbits will start using the litter box and form a habit. Keep your rabbit in the enclosure when unsupervised.

5. If they continue to use the litter boxes regularly after a few days, you can start to increase their space in other rooms.

6. If you notice that they head to a corner of the room where there is no box or lift their tail as if they are about to go to the bathroom, gently herd them back to their enclosure or nearby litter box. You can even take a hands-off approach and move a different box to that area instead of trying to catch and herd them.

7. You can remove other training boxes if they regularly use one box.

8. Scoop the litter box daily and deep clean once a month.

9. Offer a treat or praise when a rabbit uses the litter box! Like dogs and cats, positive reinforcement can encourage the behaviors you want.

10. If your rabbit refuses to use the box, re-evaluate the litter type, box placement, or possible medical issues.

11. Do not have rabbits share litter boxes with cats. Cat littler is often more toxic to rabbits, but most rabbits and cats prefer their separate sanctuaries. Avoid behavioral issues with both by providing safe clean litter boxes for each species.

Benefits of Rabbit Litter Training

It’s important to understand that rabbits mark their territory with urine or feces. The litter box can meet those needs of marking.

Keeping your rabbit away from upholstered furniture and beds is a good idea until after neutering, and a litter box habit is well established.

Post-teen spayed or neutered rabbits are less territorial and are much easier to keep potty trained.

Rabbit Litter Training Problems and Solutions

Rabbits will lay in their litter box and eat hay out of the box if it is provided, which is perfectly normal.

If your rabbit urinates in an area/corner without a litter box, place a litter box in that same area. Rabbits like to pick a few spots and always go to the bathroom there.

If you make changes and your rabbit is still urinating a lot outside the box, have them evaluated by a veterinarian to address any potential medical concerns.

A few stray fecal balls outside the litter box can and typically will happen and not something to stress about. Rabbit feces are very dry and easy to pick up with a paper towel and minimal cleanup. This is not uncommon, even in the best trained rabbits.

If your rabbit kicks a lot of litter out of the box, you can try a high-sided litter box, a covered litter box, or a urine guard for the cage. Ensure the entrance hole is still low enough for them to jump in and out easily.

Do not reach in and grab a rabbit from inside a litter box or place them directly inside one. Rabbits can start to feel like their area isn’t theirs or that it is a punishment to be in there. This may lead to rabbits going to the bathroom outside the litter box and their enclosure.