Triggerfish Care Sheet

Triggerfish Species Overview

This care sheet outlines basic care needs for a variety of triggerfish species, including: 

• Red-toothed trigger 

• Picasso trigger

• Bluejaw trigger 

• Clown trigger 

• Pinktail trigger 

• Undulated trigger 

• Bursa trigger 

• Red tail trigger 

• Queen trigger 

• Blueline trigger 

• Assasi trigger 

• Rectangle trigger 

Triggerfish are found in tropical and subtropical habitats all over the world. These colorful fish have distinctive markings and patterns. 

Triggerfish are named for the triple dorsal spines (rigid, bony projections located on the top of their body), which they use as a form of defense or to wedge themselves into rocky crevices.  

Generally, triggers are renowned for their relatively high intelligence among fish and for being able to communicate via grunting. 

Triggerfish naturally nip at corals and invertebrates in their habitat. Because of this, they are not safe for reef tanks (marine aquariums that display live corals, marine invertebrates, and fish, which together help maintain the tropical coral reef environment). 

As adults, triggerfish are aggressive and highly territorial. Certain species, like the red-toothed trigger, are less hostile as juveniles but become aggressive toward members of their own species or other triggerfish as they mature.  

Do not be fooled by the triggerfish’s large head and small mouth; they have powerful jaws and sharp teeth.  

Triggerfish Characteristics 

Difficulty of Care	Intermediate to advanced, depending on species
Average Lifespan	Up to 20 years with proper care
Average Adult Size	Up to 20+ inches, depending on species
Diet	Carnivore
Minimum Habitat Size	55+ gallons for a juvenile; 125+ gallons for an adult
Water Temperature	72–78 F
Specific Gravity	1.020–1.025
pH	8.1–8.4, depending on species

 

Triggerfish Supplies

To keep a triggerfish happy and healthy, you’ll need these basic supplies: 

• Appropriate-sized aquarium 

• Appropriate food (dry and frozen) 

• Decor 

• Marine aquarium salt 

• Marine substrate 

• Water conditioner 

• Filter 

• Water test kit 

• Full-spectrum lighting 

• Net 

• Protein skimmer 

• Thermometer 

• Heater 

• Refractometer 

• Aquarium hood/cover 

Triggerfish Tank

Triggerfish are active, territorial, and larger than many other aquarium fish. As a result, they require a spacious habitat with plenty of room to swim and establish territories! 

For a single juvenile triggerfish, a minimum 55-gallon aquarium is required, while a single adult needs at least 125 gallons. It is not recommended to keep more than one adult triggerfish in an aquarium. (More on appropriate tank mates below.) You’ll need to increase the size of your triggerfish’s aquarium as they grow. 

Triggerfish are capable jumpers and may leap out of their tank when startled. Therefore, all triggerfish aquariums must be secured with a fitted lid or canopy to prevent the fish from escaping and getting injured or dying. 

Selecting Tank Mates 

Do not keep more than one adult triggerfish in the same aquarium. As adults, triggerfish are territorial and aggressive toward both members of their own species and other species of triggerfish.

However, triggerfish can typically coexist with fish of certain other species, including: 

• Puffers

• Groupers

• Large angelfish 

• Large wrasses

• Large tangs

• Squirrelfish

Note: If including a triggerfish in a community aquarium, it’s best to introduce them to the tank last. This will help reduce territorial behavior, though it will not eliminate it entirely.  

Monitor the aquarium for fighting and other signs of aggression. If two fish exhibit aggressive behavior toward each other, they should be separated into different tanks to prevent injury. 

New tank mates must be introduced to an aquarium gradually, as adding a new fish can change the aquarium’s ammonia, pH, and nitrate levels. These parameters need to be monitored carefully after each new addition.    

Aquariums should not be overcrowded, as this often leads to stress and disease in fish. 

Filtration 

A filter system is a crucial component of any aquatic habitat. In addition to keeping the tank clean, filters remove harmful toxins like ammonia from the aquarium’s water and add oxygen to the water so fish can breathe.   

Power filters (also known as “hang-on-back” filters) and external canister filters are recommended because they offer effective mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration and do not take up any space inside an aquarium. Generally, triggerfish prefer water with slow to moderate circulation. 

Tip: An aquarium’s filter should be powerful enough to process all the water in the tank at least four times an hour. For example, a 20-gallon tank should ideally have an aquarium filter with a flow rate that’s at least 80 gallons per hour (GPH). It’s always better to exceed the recommended capacity than to fall short. Therefore, if only a 50 or 100 GPH filter is available, size up and choose the larger option.  

Triggerfish Tank Water Health and Salt Content 

Test your aquarium’s water regularly to ensure that pH, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels are stable and within a safe range. An aquarium test kit can be used to measure these key water parameters quickly and accurately. Additionally, a protein skimmer can help maintain the tank’s water quality by removing organic waste and dissolved proteins before they break down and affect water conditions. 

As a saltwater species, triggerfish need salt in their aquarium to survive. When setting up your tank, add small amounts of marine salt to your triggerfish’s habitat until the water’s specific gravity is between 1.020 and 1.025. The specific gravity reading should not change by more than +/- 0.001 in 24 hours. A hydrometer or refractometer (salt level tester) should be used to measure the salt concentration and specific gravity of the aquarium’s water. 

Temperature 

As a type of tropical fish, triggerfish prefer warm water from 72 to 78 F. The water’s temperature should not fluctuate by more than +/- 2 degrees in 24 hours.  

To maintain the ideal temperature, install an aquatic heater that’s controlled by a thermostat. You should use an aquarium thermometer to check the tank’s water temperature daily. 

When selecting a heater for the tank, keep a few things in mind: 

• Some modern heaters have a built-in thermostat, while others need to be paired with a thermostat that’s purchased separately. 

• As a rule of thumb, aquarium heaters need between 2.5 and 5 watts of power for every gallon of water in a tank. This means that a 10-gallon tank needs a heater with a power rating of 25 to 50 watts. 

• Larger aquariums with a tank volume over 50 gallons may require two small heaters, placed on opposite sides of the tank, to prevent cold spots in the water. 

Tank Decorations

Substrate

The bottom of a triggerfish’s tank should be lined with at least 1–2 inches of substrate. Sand is preferred over gravel, as triggerfish enjoy digging and burrowing. 

Aquariums require about 1.5 pounds of substrate for each gallon of water in the tank. For example, a 10-gallon tank will require about 15 pounds of substrate to create a 1- to 2-inch layer. 

Be sure to rinse the substrate with clean running water before adding it to the tank.  

Rocks, Caves, and Hiding Decor

As triggerfish mature, they can become territorial and aggressive. Hiding places, such as rock caves and coral, give the triggerfish a place to hide and rest. 

Triggerfish are known to move and rearrange rocks, so make sure that all décor is secured in the tank’s substrate and cannot topple over. 

Plants

You can use plants to add aesthetic flair and create hiding places in your triggerfish’s tank.  

Triggerfish are carnivorous and typically do not try to eat live plants. 

Submerged plants should be well-secured in the tank’s substrate to prevent them from toppling over and injuring a fish.  

Triggerfish Tank Cleaning and Maintenance

You can maintain the condition of your triggerfish’s tank by performing routine water changes every two to four weeks. Avoid draining and replacing the aquarium’s entire water volume (no more than 10–25% of the aquarium’s total water volume), as this will remove the beneficial bacteria that keep the habitat’s ecosystem healthy.  

Most aquariums will need a full cleaning once a month, which typically includes tasks such as cleaning the substrate, removing algae from the tank walls, rinsing filter media, and checking and replacing any necessary equipment. The frequency of this full cleaning may depend on the number of fish and invertebrates in the tank.

Triggerfish Diet

Triggerfish are carnivorous and should be fed a variety of foods, including commercially available flakes, pellets, freeze-dried food, frozen food, and live foods. To help keep their teeth trimmed, give them hard-shelled shrimp and shellfish. Triggerfish need this varied diet to stay healthy and should not be fed the same food every day. 

Feed triggerfish small amounts two to three times a day. Never offer more food than they can eat within one to two minutes. Frozen foods must be fully thawed before feeding. 

Note: You should never use a microwave to thaw or warm frozen food, and never offer food that’s still frozen to a triggerfish or any other pet. Additionally, thawed food that is not consumed should not be refrozen for future use, as this encourages bacteria to form in the food. 

Triggerfish Care Tips

• Newly added water should be at the same temperature and have the same salinity (salt concentration) as the existing water in the tank. 

• After a new fish, invertebrate, or equipment is added to the aquarium, it’s important to test the tank water’s quality once a week for at least two months to ensure that pH, nitrite, ammonia, nitrate, carbonate, and general hardness levels are within the ideal range.  

• If the test results are safe and consistent after two months, you can decrease testing to once a month. 

• Water test kits expire and should be replaced yearly.  

• Monitor your aquarium’s water level and top it off as needed. Before adding water to an aquarium, it must be treated with a water conditioner to remove toxic chemicals such as chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals.  

• You should check the aquarium’s filter, water temperature, and other equipment daily to ensure they’re working properly. Filter media should be replaced monthly or rinsed in the old tank water during water changes, depending on the water condition and the number of fish and invertebrates in the tank. 

• Follow the use, care, and maintenance instructions provided by the manufacturer of your filter system.  

• Do not use hot water, bleach, or chemicals while rinsing filter media, as this will kill the beneficial bacteria that help keep aquatic habitats safe, clean, and stable.  

• Avoid replacing all the filtration media in an aquarium at the same time, as this can also remove beneficial bacteria from the tank. 

Triggerfish Veterinary Care

Annual Care

To promote the health and longevity of your triggerfish, it’s recommended to schedule an annual or biannual checkup with an aquatic veterinarian. Regular checkups allow veterinarians to detect and address potential health issues or diseases early on, ensuring your fish receives timely treatment.

If an aquatic veterinarian isn’t available in your area, your local veterinarian can collaborate with an aquatic specialist to provide the best possible care for your fish.

While you can transport your triggerfish to a vet, it is recommended that you find an aquatic veterinarian who makes house calls. This avoids transportation stress on your fish and also gives the vet a chance to assess the habitat and all tank mates directly, which is especially important if there is a health problem.

Signs of a Healthy Triggerfish

• Bright coloration

• Healthy appetite

• Intact fins and scales that are free of debris, crusts, or fuzz

• Active and swimming

• Full range of motion of fin movements

When To Call a Vet

• Decreased appetite

• Lethargy or decreased activity

• Discoloration or change in color of scales, lips, eyes, or fins

• Abnormal swelling, growth, or spots

• Buoyancy issues

• Fin tears or rips

• Labored breathing

Common Illnesses in Triggerfish

• Fungal infection

• Swim bladder disease

• Bacterial infection

• Parasites