Garter Snake Care Sheet

Garter Snake Species Overview

Garter snakes are technically a semi-aquatic species, meaning they live partly on land and water. However, garter snakes can live in a wide variety of habitats, including forests, lawns, woodlands, and grasslands. 

Beginner hobbyists will find that garter snakes make excellent pets because they are small, active during the day, and do not constrict. These snakes are known for their easygoing personalities. But, like all snakes, they may strike if they feel ill, stressed, or threatened.  

Children of all ages must be supervised by an adult while handling a snake. 

On occasion, snakes may mistake human hands as a food source. This sometimes happens during shedding periods, when the clear scales that cover the snake’s eyes (eye caps) become loose and impair their vision.  

Always approach a snake calmly and quietly, and minimize handling when they are shedding. 

Garter snakes require a habitat that’s relatively large for their size. 

All reptiles are potential carriers of infectious diseases, including Salmonella bacteria, which is zoonotic (transmittable to people). Pet parents should always wash their hands before and after handling their snake or its habitat’s contents. 

Garter Snake Characteristics 

Garter Snake Supply Checklist

To keep a garter/water snake happy and healthy, pet parents should have these basic supplies on hand: 

• Appropriately sized habitat (40-gallon breeder tank for one adult; 55-gallon tank for a pair) 

• Frozen rodents 

• Earthworms 

• Substrate 

• Sphagnum moss 

• Water dish 

• Hideaway place 

• Climbing decor 

• Plants 

• Heat lights and fixtures 

• UV light emitter 

• Under-tank heater 

• Thermostat 

• Thermometers 

• Humidity gauge 

• Mister 

Garter Snake Habitat

Choosing the Right Enclosure 

Garter snakes are active reptiles that need plenty of space to explore, hide, and exercise. A single garter snake should be housed in at least a 40-gallon breeder tank (36” L x 18” W x 16” H). These slender snakes are known to be escape artists, so be sure to secure their enclosure with a tight-fitting mesh lid to prevent escape and provide proper ventilation. A pair of garter snakes should be kept in an enclosure with at least a 55-gallon capacity.

With proper care, garter snakes reach their adult size within two to four years. Pet parents should gradually increase the size of their water snake’s habitat as it grows.  

Habitat Mates 

If more than one garter snake is to be housed in the same enclosure, be sure to increase the habitat’s size accordingly (55+ gallons for a pair). Garter snakes must be introduced to each other slowly, in neutral territory, and under close supervision to ensure the animals are compatible. If two snakes fight separate them. Never house different species of snakes or other reptiles together. 

Temperature 

Garter snakes need a thermal gradient in their enclosure so they can warm up and cool down as needed. The recommended temperature for the warm end of a garter snake’s habitat is 85 F, while the cooler end should be no lower than 70 F. The warm end of the habitat should have a basking area that’s about 90 F. 

Pet parents must check the temperatures of their snake’s habitat daily. Two thermometers—one in the warm area and one in the cool area—should be placed in the enclosure so that both zones can be checked at once. A digital point-and-shoot thermometer can also be used to read habitat temperatures instantly. 

Light and Heat Support 

Pet parents should install an under-tank heater and/or over-the-tank basking lamp with a heat bulb to supply radiant heat in their snake’s habitat. The wattage needed for the heat bulb will vary depending on the size of the enclosure, the distance of the bulb from the snake, and the ambient temperature of the room in which the enclosure is kept. Adjust the wattage of the bulb to maintain the recommended temperature gradient within the tank.

Note: Some light bulbs provide not only light to the tank but also heat and/or ultraviolet (UV) light. Pet parents should check the light sources they are considering to be clear of their function in the tank. 

Heat sources should be attached to a thermostat to keep temperatures within a safe and comfortable range. 

Hot rocks should not be used because they can get too warm and cause injury.  

If an under-tank heating pad is used, it must always be connected to a thermostat to prevent the snake from getting burned.  

Light bulbs should never be placed inside a snake’s habitat and should instead be suspended above the enclosure with a light fixture. Otherwise, the snake may try to curl around the bulb, causing severe burns. 

White incandescent lights should not be left on continuously, as they will disrupt the snake’s natural sleep cycle and negatively affect their overall health. At night, turn off lights inside the snake’s enclosure or switch to a nocturnal or infrared light to ensure the snake can rest. 

UV Light 

Studies show that daily exposure to UVA/UVB light can improve reptiles’ immune system function and promote normal behavior. Pet parents should provide their garter snake with 10 to 12 hours of UV light daily to imitate natural sunlight. 

• UV lights should be placed about 12–18 inches from where the reptile basks.

• Replace lights every six months (even if they still emit light) because their potency wanes over time. 

• A day/night timer can make it easier to maintain a consistent day and night cycle. 

Humidity 

Snakes need humidity in their environment to support their respiratory systems, encourage healthy shed cycles, and stay hydrated. The ideal humidity range for a water snake is 30 to 60%. A hygrometer (humidity gauge) should be used to measure the enclosure’s humidity. During shedding periods, humidity levels should be slightly higher to help ease the process. 

To help maintain proper humidity levels, a snake’s habitat should include a water dish that’s large enough for the snake to soak in. A humid hide (a hideout box packed with moistened sphagnum moss or paper towels) should also be provided to boost humidity and encourage healthy shedding.  Snakes that are not shedding normally in one piece may be actively soaked in shallow, warm water and/or misted with warm water from a plant mister.  

Substrate 

While garter snakes should always have access to water in their enclosure, their habitats should also include a waterless area that's lined with substrate so that the snake can dry out as needed. If left in a habitat without a dry area, these snakes can develop skin infections, sores, and blisters. 

The substrate layer in a garter snake’s habitat should be at least 1–2 inches deep to allow for burrowing. Pelleted paper-based bedding, coconut fiber bedding, dry leaf litter, and sphagnum moss all make excellent substrates for water snakes.  

When selecting a substrate for their garter snake’s tank, pet parents should keep a few things in mind: 

• Pine and cedar bedding should not be used, as they have oils that can irritate a snake’s skin and cause illness. Since garters enjoy burrowing their snouts into their substrate, reptile carpet should also be avoided. 

• If aspen is used as a substrate, it must be replaced weekly to prevent the bedding from getting excessively wet or soiled and becoming moldy.  

• Wood shavings, reptile bark, mulch, and coconut husk bedding are all indigestible and can lead to life-threatening gastrointestinal obstruction if eaten. If any of these substrates are used, the snake should be fed in a separate enclosure without any substrate to prevent them from eating their bedding accidentally. 

Decor and Accessories 

Hideout Box

Pet parents should provide their snake with at least two hideout boxes—one kept on the warmer side of the enclosure and the other on the cooler side. Aside from offering the snake some privacy, hideout boxes can help snakes regulate their body temperature, giving them spaces away from their enclosure’s direct basking area. 

Pet parents should monitor their snake's behavior to be sure they are not hiding all the time, as they won’t have a chance to benefit from UV light exposure. 

Synthetic or natural wood hiding logs are recommended. 

Hiding logs should always be large enough for the snake to fit inside comfortably, so pet parents need to increase the size of their hideout boxes as their snake grows.  

Climbing Branches and Vines

Pet parents should furnish their garter snake’s habitat with branches or vines to encourage exercise and help satisfy the snake’s natural desire to climb. 

Ensure any branches installed in the habitat are sturdy and strong enough to support the snake’s weight. Otherwise, the branch could topple over and cause injury. 

Moss

Moist sphagnum moss can be added to the inside of a hideout box on the warm side of a snake’s enclosure to create a humid hide. Moss holds moisture well and can aid in healthy shedding. 

Moss should be replaced often to prevent mold from forming. 

Garter Snake Cleaning and Maintenance

A garter snake’s habitat needs to be cleaned and disinfected at least once a week with either a commercially available habitat cleaner or a 3% bleach solution. Pet parents should always wash their hands before and after handling their snake or the habitat’s contents, as all reptiles are potential carriers of infectious diseases. 

To clean a water snake’s habitat, take these steps: 

1. Move the snake to a secure environment. Remove any old substrate, decor, and accessories from the habitat. 

2. Scrub the empty tank and any furnishings with a reptile habitat cleaner or 3% bleach solution. The bleach solution should stay on the habitat for at least 10 minutes to ensure the surfaces are properly disinfected. If using a commercial habitat cleaner, follow the manufacturer's instructions. 

3. Rinse the habitat and accessories thoroughly with water, making sure to remove any trace amounts or residual smells left by the cleaning agent or bleach solution.  

4. Allow the habitat and its contents to dry completely before placing new substrate and clean accessories into the habitat. 

5. Return the snake to the clean habitat. 

Garter Snake Diet and Nutrition

Garter snakes should be fed frozen/thawed rodents and earthworms, plus frozen/thawed feeder fish (such as comet goldfish) as an occasional treat. Garter snakes should be given a varied diet. 

Snakes should always have access to fresh, clean water. Use feeding tongs, not fingers, to offer meals, so that snakes do not associate fingers with feeding and snap at your hand. 

A nutritious and well-balanced diet for a garter snake includes appropriately sized frozen rodents, thawed and warmed. Offer food in a shallow dish or bowl to lessen the chance of the snake ingesting their tank’s substrate by accident. 

The snake’s ideal feeding schedule will depend on its age, size, and activity level.

Pet parents should begin juvenile snakes on a diet of “pinkies,” or young and nearly hairless mice. As the snake grows into adulthood, it can be transitioned to a diet of slightly larger immature mice (“fuzzies” and larger “hoppers”). Eventually, snakes can be offered full-grown mice and rats. 

Prey should be around the same size as the snake’s width at mid-body. For example, if the snake’s midsection is 1 inch in diameter, the prey should also be no wider than 1 inch. 

Frozen rodents should never be microwaved, as this can leave “hot spots” that can burn a reptile. 

Frozen/thawed feeder fish, including comet goldfish, rosy reds, minnows, and guppies should only be fed as an occasional treat. Many fish species contain an enzyme called “thiaminase” which breaks down thiamine (vitamin B1) in snakes’ bodies and can lead to a vitamin deficiency. Feeder fish can also contain parasites that can be passed onto snakes when eaten. 

Fresh, clean water should always be available and replaced daily.

Since reptiles absorb water through their skin to stay hydrated, especially during shedding periods, their water dishes should be large and shallow enough to allow them to soak in them.  

Garter Snake Feeding Guidelines 

• Baby snakes and juveniles should be fed every other day. 

• Adult snakes that primarily eat frozen/thawed rodents should be fed once a week.

• Adult snakes that primarily eat earthworms should be fed twice a week. 

• When feeding fish, place the fish in the snake’s water bowl. 

• Garter snakes can develop nutritional imbalances when fed defrosted fish and immature rodent prey (such as “fuzzies” and “pinkies”) in excess. 

How to Thaw Frozen Prey 

Live rodents should not be fed. While still alive, rodents can become aggressive and leave severe wounds that lead to life-threatening infections. If the pet parent chooses to feed live rodents, they must supervise the snake closely and not leave them unattended. 

Ideally, feeding sessions should take place in a separate enclosure. That way, the snake will not learn to associate their pet parent’s hand or the opening of their usual habitat with feeding. Instead of their fingers, pet parents should use long feeding tongs to offer food to their snake. 

To thaw frozen prey, take these steps: 

1. Remove the needed number of food items from the bag. 

2. Put the frozen food in a sealed plastic bag and place it in a thawing container filled with cold water. The thawing container should only be used for thawing your reptile’s frozen meals. 

3. Keep the food in the water until it thaws. Discard the cold water. 

4. Refill the thawing container with warm water. 

5. Place the thawed prey, still in the sealed plastic bag, in the warm water. Allow it to soak for 10–15 minutes before discarding the water. 

6. Just before feeding, run nearly hot water over the thawed food to warm it above room temperature. 

7. Remove the thawed food from the container and plastic bag.  

8. Using feeding tongs, offer the food to the pet right away. 

Never use a microwave to thaw or warm frozen rodents, and never offer food that's still frozen to a pet. Frozen food that is not consumed should never be refrozen for future use, as this encourages bacteria to form in the food. Microwaving frozen rodents can also leave “hot spots” that can burn a reptile. 

Avoid preparing frozen rodents in the same area that you use to prepare food. If this is unavoidable, be sure to disinfect the area thoroughly after use. 

Garter Snake Grooming and Care

Shedding

Adult snakes shed their skin multiple times a year. Younger snakes that are actively growing tend to shed more frequently than adults. Healthy snakes should shed their skin in one complete piece. 

During shedding periods, pet parents should keep their snake’s tank at a suitable humidity level to encourage a proper shed.  

A snake’s eye caps, also called its spectacles, should come off with the rest of its shed skin. If the eye caps do not fall off, pet parents should not try to remove them and instead consult a veterinarian.  

Snakes may become irritable and lose interest in eating while shedding. Since they may become irritable, snakes should not be handled when shedding. 

Snakes can soak themselves in shallow, open dishes of water to help shed their skin. Damp paper towels and moistened sphagnum moss can also be placed in the snake’s enclosure to encourage healthy shedding. Pet parents can also mist their snake daily to support proper hydration. 

Due to their slow metabolisms, snakes can go weeks and even months without eating. However, they often become ill if they don’t eat for extended periods. If a snake misses more than a couple of feeding sessions, or if they regurgitate food, the pet parent should consult a veterinarian, especially if the snake isn’t shedding at the time. 

Garter Snake Veterinary Care

Annual Care

Garter snakes should be seen by a veterinarian once annually. They can be transported using a ventilated plastic lidded bin, with a snake bag. Take pictures of their enclosure, diet, heaters, lights and lights so your veterinarian can assess their husbandry as part of the exam.

Signs of a Healthy Garter Snake

• Clean, clear eyes

• Intact skin with no ulcerations or stuck shed

• Clean vent

• No swellings or bumps

• Regular flicking of their tongue

• Relaxed demeanor

• Consistent, potentially bright color striping

• Willingness to enter shallow water

When to Call a Vet

• Cloudy eyes or eyes that appear to have something stuck to the surface

• Blisters, ulcerations, stuck shed, or other lesions on the skin

• Discharge around the vent

• Tumors

• Lethargy

• Loss of appetite

• Sudden inability to move a section of their body

• Aggressive behavior that may include musking (releasing of a greasy liquid with a foul odor from glands near their tail) that is not typical for your snake

Common Illnesses in Garter Snakes

• Dysecdysis (stuck shed, retained eye spectacles)

• Respiratory infections

• Oral infections

• Internal or external parasites, especially mites

• GI obstruction or constipation

• Trauma—especially bite wounds if feeding live prey

• Burns